A stainless steel Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5066 on rubber watch strap. This is perhaps, alongside the Nautilus, one of the most iconic and sought after wristwatches in the world. When it comes to steel sport watches, trust Patek to deliver one of the most recognizable, desirable and expensive options!
A child of the 1970’s, The Nautilus had already paved the way for Patek Philippe to enter the luxury sport watch market. Fast forward to 1997, and it was time for Patek to add a new design to its offering. Welcome to the world… the Aquanaut, a true child of the 1990’s. Its design reinterpreted the Nautilus’s signature porthole shape but made it feel a little more modern and a suitable foil for those that either had a Nautilus or looked for something different altogether – all sitting on a new brick pattern rubber strap which references the dial’s design. This was then paired with a beautifully made stainless steel butterfly deployant buckle.
It was in the height of the .com boom. Exuberance ran aplenty in the west as millionaires were being created at a rate never seen in the western world, and, for the first time in history many of them were younger. It was this generation that really adopted the internet and what potnetial pwoer it might have. Patek Philippe needed to respond to this new client. The ever popular Nautlilus was now twenty years old, and Patek needed to respond with a new, more modern watch that would appeal to this younger crowd.
The reference 5066 was released in 1996. The Patek Philippe Ref. 5060A was the legendary timepiece that started it all. At a modest 35.6mm, it was smaller than the contemporary 'mid-size' Nautilus Ref. 3800/1A, which measured 37.5mm. Yet the similarities between the two designs are immediately apparent - most notably the iconic eight-sided, port hole-inspired bezel conceived by the legendary Gérald Genta. Similarly, the satin-brushed case is unmistakably Nautilus in aesthetic, but with a more modern, refined feel. A solid, screw-down caseback and crown ensured a robust 120m water resistance rating, making this a truly versatile sports watch
The watch appears to be lightly polished, as is more often the case with watches from this period. This precious example is in excellent condition overall and is commensurate with age for a piece that is over 20 years old. The distinctive and unique dial is in perfect condition, and the Tritium on the dial has already aged into an attractive warm lemon colour with matching original hand set. The band and deployant are in excellent condition. The watch is powered by the Patek self-winding calibre 330 SC, a manufacture movement with sweep seconds hand and date indicator. Measuring just 3.5mm thick, it was equipped with Patek Philippe’s patented Gyromax balance wheel and oscillated at 21,600 vph. A 21k gold unidirectional rotor was responsible for charging up the spring, which stored enough power for 48 hours of use. Although not visible beneath the solid caseback, the movement was still expertly finished, as attested to by the Geneva Seal (the Patek Philippe Seal wasn’t introduced until 2009).
The Aquanaut's defining feature was its innovative rubber strap - a first for Patek Philippe and a bold move at the time. Developed over a year using more than 20 materials, the strap was impervious to saltwater, UV damage, and bacteria, earning approval from the US Food and Drug Administration. Perfectly suited for water sports and beach activities, Patek Philippe aptly christened it the "Tropical" strap. The original Patek black rubber watch strap measures just under seven inches currently, but can be cut down to a smaller size, should the be required. If a larger band is required, this can be sourced.
This example, the reference 5066, can be thought of as the second generation of the original Ref. 5060. It kept the same 35.6mm case and the same self-winding Calibre 330 SC but introduced a sapphire caseback. It was also made available in a yellow gold case with rubber strap in the Ref. 5066 J-001.
This is a rare opportunity to own a wonderful watch that is perhaps at just the beginning of its journey of collectibility.
All watches are protected against mechanical failure under a 1 year warranty by Foundwell. The watch has recently undergone a Patek Philippe service. There are no papers or box present.
